To make up for being a bad friend and missing Tamara’s birthday dinner, I offered her the chance to pick any Dine LA Restaurant Week establishment for her feliz cumpleanos. She settled on Chef Jason Johnston’s Dakota in the Roosevelt Hotel. It was an excellent and rather filling choice, especially since I’d been craving some iron-rich foods, and no blood jello was at hand.
Blurry photograph or artistic impressionism? The Dakota is proud of its design, as you can tell from its website, which has a whole page devoted to “Ambiance.” Well, you know what? I’m buying it. Despite my unsteady hands, I think you can see it does indeed have a “palatte [sic] of warm chocolate browns, ambient lighting and gorgeous leather and suede banquettes.”
I love banquettes. Maybe it reminds me of childhood and sitting in the back of a station wagon. Whatever, but it’s cosy and homey and still Hollywood-y. I will have nothing but banquettes in my future dream home movie theater/gladiator arena.
Beware of the bread basket! Didn’t want to fill up, but the very informative waiter had told us one of the breads had bacon in it as a precaution in case we were vegetarians or had an aversion to pork, but we took that as an endorsement. The texture was very croissant-like, with bits of bacon. Awesome. The rest of the basket was similarly enticing/damning. Tamara liked the pretzel bread-y twist, while I enjoyed the parmesan-crusted roll.
This butternut squash bisque was all I wanted it to be — warm, smooth and satisfying — but the cold and naturally sweet lobster salad in the center was just a tastebud-tantalizing bonus.
What can I say? The pork belly called to me in its snorting tones, and I answered (but not in kind or out loud). The quail eggs were cute, but probably overkill (not that I minded). I could have used a bit more Yukon Gold puree with the tender meat, caramalized apple and frise, but man, it was a still hearty, happy starter.
I should have ordered the diver scallops in beurre blanc, but as it was, I felt grateful for the taste of the plump and sweet shellfish Tamara offered me. The truffle grits were savory, but the patti pan squash and English peas need a tad more salt and pepper, which was easily rectified. I’m sure our request for the shaker/grinder wasn’t the most welcome (or sophisticated), but it really did lack something.
Since the pork belly was obviously not enough protein for my depleted body, I decided on the beef duo for my entree. Although the coriander-crusted grassfed New York strip was medium rare as I had requested, it was a bit dry and the bordelaise on the skimpy side. Did it not rest long enough? The easily flaked short ribs didn’t need any help whatsoever though. Asparagus and fingerlings were cooked properly, even though I ended up giving away most of the taters and onions to Tamara.
All this and two glasses of wine already had me ready to move the belt notch wider by one, but dessert would not be denied. I really wanted to try the chocolate mousse blossom since I love me a chocomousse, but unfortunately, it was layered with banana. I asked our server if it was made to order or premade, but sadly, it was the latter, so I could not substitute a friendlier fruit.
The apple tatin was a bit too rich for me, but the cinnamon ice cream helped a little. Solid, but no raves.
Points to the Dakota for this personal touch on Tamara’s dessert. I had only mentioned her birthday in a note on the Internet reservation, but apparently the attentive staff heeds those notes. I didn’t even mention anything when I arrived at the restaurant. Pretty, no?
The lemon poppy seed cheesecake with lemon coulis was as light as cheesecake can possibly be and fruity enough for me to want a few extra spoonfuls. A good finish overall.
As I’ve mentioned, the service was great, but occasionally too attentive. I won’t go so far as to say obsequious, but there were times I just wanted to eat and talk with my companion for the night and ignore the kowtowing. I’d rather have that than bad service though, so I’m not really complaining. (Warning: The bill comes with a 20 percent gratuity already added, which is something I’m only used to in bigger parties. I was so nervous that I was misreading it, I had birthday girl take a gander at the check before I skipped over the tip line.)
It was a bit steep for an everyday meal, but I’m totally down for its more affordable, albeit gimmicky BLT night on Tuesdays.
Happy Bday, Tamara B!
Dakota Restaurant
Roosevelt Hotel
7000 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028
323.769.8888
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Aw, you’re such a sweet friend. Dakota’s food looks really hearty, which is surprising considering the Roosevelt’s crowd. I hear they snort more than they eat