Celebrity chefdom is a slippery slope: If you’ve already made a name for yourself in the food world and achieved fame solely from your skills, well good for you. But for those who’ve toiled in kitchens all their lives but only lately have come into the public eye through the magic of television, your task is doubly challenging:
1) Prove you’re actually a competent chef through great food, not just personality
2) Still be that wacky character that gave good TV, but in the real world with annoying foodie fans who act like they know you
Fabio Viviani of “Top Chef” fame did pretty well on both fronts for the October grand opening party for Firenze Osteria in Toluca Lake (actually NoHo/Studio City area, but TL connotes class) where the Barsac Brasserie once stood.
It’s not quite fair or expected to judge the restaurant on the evening’s offerings, since only a few items are on the menu proper, but since almost everything was prepared lovingly and lived up to the Northern Italian comfort food theme flavor-wise, this may bode well for Firenze O. A good thing since reviews for Cafe Firenze in Moorpark are gradually plummeting since Fabio’s exit.
After talking my way in (what, I was supposed to sign up on some list? Huh.), I was immediately greeted at the door by a very good-looking Italian man who wanted to ply me with alcohol. I’m easy. I chose the cabernet. The wines for the evening were provided by the Malibu Family Wines.
Big ups to Guitar Guy whose fingers were bloody stumps by the end of the evening. He kept the familiar Muzak-inspired songs going for hours. He was a rebel. He even played “The Long and Winding Road” at the beginning of the evening!
I spent most of the evening near the pass, bugging the patient waitstaff with my presence as I got a preview of what was to come.
Wine in one hand, lobster bisque in the other. Uber rich and profound and lobster-y. I had three. This is on the regular restaurant menu.
The bright beef filet of the carpaccio con funghi (on regular menu) was almost delicate, a contrast to the meatier roasted mushrooms and blue cheese
The malfatti burro e salvia (on regular menu) was something I hadn’t had before. These were awesomely dense dumplings of spinach and ricotta with a light brown butter and sage sauce. Shaved parm brought it all together. A surprising favorite of mine for the evening.
I did it all for the gnocchi, c’mon, the gnocchi … These were sooooo good. The gnocchi cinque terre (regular menu) was super tender without being mushy, coated in a light basil pesto sauce (w/ pine nuts & 18-month aged parm).
The braised short rib ravioli (also on the regular menu) and taleggio sauce was fine, but maybe it’s because I’ve been short-ribbed out lately. I kind of expect something more …
So many umami flavors in this baby octopus dish, and the meat was incredibly tender! Neck and neck with the bisque for favorite eats of the night. Do crustaceans and cephalopods have necks?
Perfectly cooked sweet scallop with bacon and greens. Simple. Good. Maybe a touch of acid would have made it amazing.
I love rustic stuff like this sardine and eggplant app.
Roasted quail with drizzled olive oil. I ate at least four of these and was only hampered by their tiny bones and little meat.
Lots of tuna tartare at the end of the evening.
I had to run out of the party all Cinderella-like to make an appearance at some friends’ masquerade party later, so I’m not sure if I missed dessert or not. Nevertheless, I thought it was a very well regulated party — fun, plentiful food & drink and a guests who weren’t the typical foodies/clubbers.
As for those who want to hear more about Fabio, he was very gracious at the party, taking pictures with anyone who asked. No I didn’t ask for a picture (as if!) but I did run into him, literally. He spilled my red wine when he was gesticulating rather broadly while talking. Those Italians! We were both rather embarrassed and apologetic. Luckily, no harm done to my white outfit. No “Can’t Buy Me Love” scenario here!
Seriously though, I went to this event as a bit of a lark, but was satisfied enough with the food that I think I’ll try it for lunch someday. Also, Jacopo Falleni is the mixologist there, so a cocktail might be in order!
Firenze Osteria
4212 Lankershim Blvd.
Toluca Lake, CA 91602
818.760.7081
{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
Hubby really loved the short rib ravioli when we went there last week!
I sometimes wonder if I get palate fatigue. I should eat a bunch of veggies and then appreciate it more!
mmm.. the scallop looks amazing. great pix!
So much of that looks so delicioso… I heard a middling report from Moorpark about 6 months ago, but this looks v promising.
I was kind of surprised and wary too. It wasn’t stupendous-fabioso, but it was pretty good, especially for passed hors d’!
I went here Friday with my roommate & had a great time! Lots of creative martinis: I had the balsamic, the mintcumber & the chimp (hey, the drinks were free) – enjoyed them all but balsamic was my favorite. Umm, the food was good too.